Wednesday 12 December 2018

Being Allured By Honshu - Day 2

        A good night’s sleep truly works wonders. The bed at Japaning Hotel LiV Ranrokaku was really comfortable and I woke up well-rested and rejuvenated. Derrick came back from his sunrise pursuit, happy with his shots of Arashiyama’s Bamboo Grove, and was ready to join me for breakfast that was provided by the hotel. The friendly receptionist soon knocked on our room door to deliver our breakfast boxes, which consisted of a medley of rice, tofu, tamago (fried egg), pickles, mochis (Japanese sweet rice cakes) and goodness-knows-what-they-are.
Literally having breakfast in bed

        We checked out early but left our luggage at the hotel so that we could still go out and explore Arashiyama. Tenryuji Temple and its beautifully-landscaped Sougenchi Garden were what we had in mind. The ¥500 admission fee was a small price to pay for the stunning momiji (Japanese maple trees) that offered endless photography opportunities. We were truly in autumn wonderland.
Tenryuji Temple (天龍寺) was built in 1339 and is now registered as a World Heritage Site.


Its gardens are beautifully landscaped and the vibrant autumn colours are a real delight.

Autumn Wonderland

I was behaving like a Happy Snappy Jappy.

        Our hotel receptionist helped us to call for a taxi (¥820) to take us to the Saga Arashiyama station where we made use of our ICOCA cards for the very first time. A simple tap on the reader at the entrance gates was all we needed to do; it certainly saved us the trouble of fiddling with the ticket machines. We soon found ourselves back in Kyoto Station (¥240 deducted from the ¥1500 amount in the ICOCA card). Although Kyoto Station is enormous, locating the right exit to get to our hotel was not difficult because of the homework I had done on the Internet beforehand.
        Hotel Hokke Club Kyoto is conveniently located just opposite of Kyoto Station and I’m really glad I decided to stay here after weighing many other possibilities. Although it was too early for us to check in, we could leave our luggage at the hotel and were free to start exploring Kyoto. To nurse our rumbling tummies, we headed for JR Isetan inside Kyoto Station. We were keen to try 551 Horai’s butaman (steamed pork buns) and shumai after reading about them in a blog. The stall is located in Basement 2, JR Isetan’s Food Paradise. Oh my! They were indeed delicious!
Long queues in front of this 551 Horai stall is a norm


Food replicas on the shelf to help customers point out what they want when language is a barrier

Derrick also ordered these amazo-dango (meat balls in sweet and sour sauce)

        From Kyoto Station, we made an 8-minute journey on the JR Nara Line local train to get to Inari Station (¥140 deducted from ICOCA card). We were there to visit the awe-inspiring Fushimi Inari Shrine, an important Shinto shrine in Southern Kyoto and was also one of the locations featured in "Memoirs Of A Geisha". It is famous for its 10,000 vermilion torii (traditional Japanese gate), which lead the way into the wooded forest of Mount Inari. Walking past these endless orange columns and climbing the 12,000 steps evokes an exhilarating feeling and can be equated to a good gym workout.
Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社) is just in front of the Inari Station


Each of these torii was donated by individuals or companies.

This shrine is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto God of rice.

Lovebirds at Fushimi Inari

Tugging the bells

       
Sunset colours in the sky as we were leaving Fushimi Inari
        After we had our fill of the attractive gates, we headed back to Kyoto Station. Knowing that it's brimming with eateries, we decided to take advantage of that. We explored the 11th floor of JR Istean and finally picked Mollette for dinner. Derrick ordered an omelette rice paella with five kinds of mushrooms and two additional Vienna sausages, while I conveniently had a bit of everything in my Ladies' Set - salad, au gratin with small shrimp and bacon, sautéed salmon, fried scallop, omurice (rice wrapped in omelette, similar to Malaysia's nasi goreng pataya), dessert and drink. Our dinner came up to ¥3294 for both of us.
For people who have a hard time making up their minds on what to eat, the Ladies' Set comes to the rescue.


My omurice with seasoned cod roe sauce (¥1620)

Derrick's omelette rice paella

My yummy green tea cake and orange juice

        The two lovebirds strolled up to Kyoto Station's Sky Garden after dinner to enjoy night views of Kyoto and then descended the long flight of steps that were illuminated with Christmas lights, whilst enjoying the Christmas carols that were being played and the huge Christmas tree that was beautifully decorated. Christmas appears to be an integral part of life in Japan, despite Shinto and Buddhism being the two major religions in Japan.
Dancing lights on the steps


Seeing a Christmas tree always brings a smile to my face

Kyoto Tower all lit up

        Back at the hotel, we found that female guests are given the privilege of choosing 2 gifts from a wide array of Ladies' Presents. I chose 2 packets of Yuzu Bath Powder so that Derrick too could enjoy a relaxing soak in the bathtub. I really love these little luxuries that Japanese hotels provide. Hotel Hokke Club Kyoto also has a water dispenser at the lobby, from which we can obtain hot and cold jasmine tea, premium green tea as well as my favourite houjicha tea. Needless to say, that thrilled me to bits.   😍
Presents to delight the ladies


The water dispenser with my favourite houjicha

Tuesday 11 December 2018

Being Allured By Honshu - Day 1

        Ohayogozaimasu! Our Cathay Pacific flight touched down at Osaka’s Kansai International Airport at 6.20 a.m. and our 2-week adventure in the Land of the Rising Sun began. Clearing customs and immigration was a breeze. Next, we made our way to the JR West Office located at the Kansai Airport train station. We needed to get our pre-booked ICOCA cards and discounted Haruka tickets (¥2000 for ICOCA and ¥1600 for Haraka). This was a very good deal; otherwise a Limited Express Haruka ticket from Kansai to Kyoto costs ¥2850
My sweet Hello Kitty  & Osaka Castle  ICOCA card...chose the Wind & Thunder Gods design for Derrick


Helpful info to assist travellers

After passengers alight from the Limited Express Haruka, cleaners get in to clean the carriages.

On board the Limited Express Haruka No. 6 to take us from Kansai Airport to Kyoto Station

The cold yet tasty pork cutlet sandwich

        Whilst waiting for our 7.55 a.m. train, we popped into a 7-11 kiosk on the platform to grab pork cutlet sandwiches (¥368 each) to be eaten during our 80-minute journey. And that was our simple, convenient yet tasty first breakfast in Japan. Punctuality is really something we Malaysians need to learn from the Japanese. The train departed right on time and arrived at Kyoto Station at 9.34 a.m., as scheduled.
        Instead of exiting Kyoto Station, we transferred to the JR Sagano-Sanin Line to board another train bound for Saga-Arashiyama Station. Our Haruka ticket enables us to travel all the way to Saga-Arashiyama for free. It seemed like Arashiyama was on everyone’s agenda because the train was packed with visitors headed there. The station and streets of Arashiyama were extremely crowded, making our task of lugging our luggage to our accommodation a rather difficult one. Fortunately, we managed to locate our Japaning Hotel LiV Ranroukaku, albeit with a few wrong turns. We were warmly greeted and it was a pleasant surprise to find our room ready for us even though we had checked in ahead of time. Unlike many Japanese hotel rooms which have hardly any room to swing a cat around, our room was spacious and comfortable.
Tourists exiting the Saga-Arashiyama Station in droves

        Trying to find a spot for lunch was also difficult as there were hordes of people milling around and long queues outside restaurants. We were drawn to a tiny cafe along a small side street. It sure was nice to sit by the counter and watch our yakisoba (fried soba noodles) and negisaki (a kind of Japanese pancake) being cooked.
Yakisoba, Japan's answer to our chow mien


Adding bacon to the negiyaki, a thin savoury pancake

Appetising yakisoba ready to be served to us

Our negiyaki with lots of bonito flakes

        After lunch, we wandered around Arashiyama, ooh-ing and aah-ing at the glorious koyo (autumn-coloured foliage). We just could not get enough of the vibrant colours, and were mighty glad that we had arrived in Arashiyama at the peak of the koyo season.
Red sky


My darling and I with the glorious autumn leaves

Blending in with the momiji (red maple leaves)

        Arashiyama’s famed Bamboo Grove, on the other hand, was a bit of a letdown. It was a struggle jostling among the horrendous crowd, and we could not wait to squirm out of it. Derrick returned the next morning before sunrise and it was way better. However, it still was nothing much to shout about.
The not-so-idyllic Bamboo Grove


Nonomiya Shrine near the Bamboo Grove

        We got ourselves some snacks and ice cream to eat whilst weaving around the streets of Arashiyama. I especially loved the houjicha ice cream. Houjicha is roasted green tea and its distinctive aroma has always been my favourite ever since I first tasted houjicha creme brûlée at Maiale in Ipoh.
Our crabstick and hotate being torch flamed on the grill


Really yummy houjicha ice cream (¥350)

         As it was late autumn, the sky soon turned dark (sunset was around 4.30 p.m.). So we crossed the Togetsukyo Bridge to return to our hotel. Togetsukyo Bridge or Moon Crossing Bridge is a landmark of Arashiyama and offers great views of the autumn foliage. Back at our hotel, I managed to persuade Derrick to shed his inhibitions and to try Japan’s famous public bath in his birthday suit. He loved it!
Crossing Arashiyama's Togetsukyo Bridge


        Finding dinner was a problem in Arashiyama as almost every eatery closes early. We ended up having some udon and light snacks from the kiosks outside Randen Arashiyama Station. As we were really exhausted from the lack of sleep whilst flying the previous night, we hit the sack early.
Being enchanted by the Kimono Forest at Randen Arashiyama Station