Saturday 31 August 2019

Being Allured By Honshu - Day 7

        After breakfast (we chose to have Western breakfast again) at Nakayasu Ryokan, we had to check out and make our way to the bus stop just behind the ryokan. We were pleasantly surprised to be presented with a farewell token by the ryokan owner. The 2 pairs of hashi (Japanese chopsticks) now occupy a spot in our Ikea Detolf glass cabinet for ornaments that we pick up from our travels.
        Although it was a Sunday morning, the public bus came right on schedule. We paid ¥200 per person for a ride to the Kanazawa Station, where we boarded the 9.40 a.m. Hokutetsu bus to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shirakawa-go (白川郷). The 1 hour 15 minutes journey to Shirakawa-go costs ¥1850 each. The bus was comfortable and equipped with free wi-fi.
Quiet streets on a Sunday morning


Pretty Kanazawa Station

        This mountain settlement was once a wild and unexplored region. Its distinctive large roofed gassho-styled houses, especially in a winter scene, immediately come to mind when Shirakawa-go is mentioned. I can now tick it off my bucket list.
        I had originally wanted to spend the night at one of the minshukus (family-run gassho farmhouses) but they were all fully booked. Upon arrival at the Shirakawa-go Bus Terminal, I was really glad it turned out this way as the accommodation that I had finally settled on was a mere 3-minute walk away. On the other hand, if we were staying in one of the minshukus,  we would have had to lug our suitcases further away whilst jostling with the throngs of tourists.
We were provided with a map to guide us around

        Our room at the Shirakawa-go no Yu Hotel would only be ready at 3 p.m. so we left our suitcases at the lobby and ventured out to explore. We walked uphill for 20 minutes to the Ogimachi Castle observation deck. If walking uphill is not one's forte, one could take a ride on the shuttle bus for ¥200. From the vantage point, a view of all the gassho-styled houses could be enjoyed. Before we descended, we tried the steamed beef bun and Hida curry beef stick (¥400 each). The latter, especially, was so yummy!
Loved this crispy Hida curry beef stick!


Clear waters of the river just behind our hotel

        Truth be told, wandering around Shirakawa-go at ground level was much better than viewing it from the observation deck. It was like a dream come true for me to see the gassho-styled houses up close. The shape of the thatched roofs resemble hands in prayer. The steep slopes enable snow to slip off, hence protecting the houses from being crushed by heavy snowfall.
Behold the magical Shirakawa-go!


Beautiful at every turn of the corner

Spot the odd one out

Picture perfect

        Although many of the gassho-styled houses have been turned into museums, gift shops and hostels, some were still private homes. Both Derrick and I really enjoyed ourselves exploring the village, looking for suitable spots to return to for photography, popping into the many gift shops to pick up a souvenir or two and also pausing by friendly windows for some snacks. We shared a Hida beef skewer (¥550 each) as well as matcha vanilla ice cream (¥350 each)...Totemo oishi! 
Interesting to look at


This was heavenly!

Come home with me?

In love with Shirakawa-go

        Still feeling hungry, we had a late lunch at Keyaki, located along the main road. Both my udon noodles with nameko mushrooms (¥756 each) and Derrick's Hida beef curry rice (¥1100 each) were so delicious.
Our late lunch ... yummy indeed!


Outside Keyaki

Day trippers start leaving the village


        We then returned to our hotel for a rest. Our room was ready and our suitcases had already been taken to our room. We had booked a Western-styled room but bathroom facilities were shared. Needless to say, we proceeded to unwind at the indoor and outdoor onsen. Being one of the few places in Shirakawa-go to offer the hot spring baths facilities, tourists spending the night at other accommodations can also come to Shirakawa-go no Yu Hotel to use the onsen for a fee.
        At 6.30 p.m., clad in yukatas (Japanese robe), we joined other hotel guests for another must-do for visitors to Japan - a kaiseki (traditional multi-course Japanese dinner). The elaborate meal, which was included in our accommodation price, was truly a feast for the eyes and the palate. There were appetiser, sashimi, pickled vegetables, assorted tofu, grilled salmon, miso soup, a small hot pot, Hida beef slices, rice and desert. I especially enjoyed the tender beef slices that I had to cook over the flame.
A kaiseki - truly an experience to try whilst visiting Japan


Poised to feast

Grilling my Hida beef slices 

        After dinner, we dressed warmly and went out for a romantic stroll in the dark in the crisp autumn air. Later, we enjoyed some local sake (Japanese rice wine) in our room before calling it a day.
Derrick cleverly bought this sake (¥450) from one of the shops for a nightcap.

Saturday 24 August 2019

Being Allured By Honshu - Day 6

        Breakfast was included in our accommodation package at Nakayasu Ryokan. We were the only ones who chose to have a Western style breakfast, which consisted of cereal, pancakes with honey, omelette, bacon, fruits and coffee.
Simple yet tasty breakfast served at Nakayasu Ryokan

        The weather, unfortunately, was not on our side this morning. It was gloomy and there was a light drizzle when we ventured out. Nevertheless, we made our way to Kenrokuen Garden, one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan (the other 2 being Korakuen in Okayama and Kairakuen in Mito). Entrance fee into this 25-acre garden costs ¥310 each. Just as we were about to start exploring the vast garden, it started pouring and we had to seek shelter at the souvenir shop. It was there that Derrick spotted an adorable zodiac tea towel (¥650), which we bought and have had it framed up in Ipoh.
        It cleared up a little and we started exploring, amidst a slight drizzle. Kenrokuen is truly beautiful, and even more so, with all the red autumn leaves. We fell in love with every corner that we turned.   And we spent many hours in Kenrokuen, so it was past midday when we left.
Wandering around with a hat to protect my hair from the light drizzle


The Kotoji Toro (a two-legged stone lantern)

Duck duck comes out to play

Red carpet

Astounding beauty of Kenrokuen

And the path goes on

Dedicated photographers

        Fortunately, we found a restaurant just opposite Kourin Sushi that was still serving lunch. We both ordered the pork cutlet rice bowl, which also came with a small udon (¥780). It was really yummy! 
Hungry and eager to start eating


Yummy katsudon

        After that, we walked around and found ourselves at the Gyokusen-inmaru Garden, which was the residence of the wife of a feudal lord. From there, we went on to explore the grounds of Kanazawa Castle. 

Well-manicured Gyokusen-inmaru Garden

Lovely to meander around

Despite not being a sea of red, it was still idyllic here at Gyokusen-inmaru Garden
Kanazawa Castle's whitish roof tiles are made of lead
"Follow me?"

Got to rest my weary feet

Blissful rest

        We decided to return to our ryokan to rest and to delight in the onsen. En route, we stopped to buy corn croquette (¥79) and pau (¥167) from 7-Eleven to munch on. 
        Later, we returned to 7-Eleven for an economical dinner (¥1299 for both of us) before proceeding to Kenrokuen for the Night Illumination. It was so crowded and we were practically inching forward around the grounds to marvel at the beautiful garden with its magical lights. It turned out that this was the last night of the Autumn Night Illumination, hence the big crowd!
This is the 7-Eleven store that we patronised.


My shrimp gratin
Night Illumination at Kenrokuen

The illuminated Kotoji Toro