Being Allured By Honshu - Day 8

Beautiful Shirakawa-go at every turn

        Wishing to make the most of our short stay in Shirakawa-go, we woke up early to capture some sunrise shots of the gassho-style houses. Unfortunately, it was raining so hopes of getting sunrise colours were dashed. Nevertheless, we braved the rain and ventured out.

Shirakawa-go on a misty morning

Breakfast at the hotel

        We later returned to our hotel for a sumptuous breakfast. As our bus was scheduled for 10.25 a.m., we were able to laze around in the room for a while before checking out and walking the very short distance (3-minute walk) to the bus terminal. Upon checking out, we were slapped with a ¥150 each for onsen tax, which I thought was rather unfair. It had not been clearly stated in the hotel conditions, and bearing in mind that all rooms did not have an ensuite, guests would be compelled to use the onsen.

Boarding the bus 

My most yummy prawn broth ramen

Derrick's pork bone broth ramen

This is the ramen gem that we stumbled upon

        We arrived at Kanazawa Station at 11.34 a.m. (15 minutes ahead of schedule) and we had about 2 hours to kill before catching our bullet train to Tokyo. Wandering around Kanazawa Station, we stumbled upon an excellent ramen restaurant, Raumen Samurai-no Samurai. My ramen in prawn broth was simply ooh-la-lla! Definitely the best ramen I've ever had. Derrick tasted my ramen soup and had to concede that it was tastier than his pork bone broth, which was also yummy. Our lunch came up to ¥1750 for both of us.
        At exactly 1.56 p.m., our Hokuriku Shinkansen Hakutaka No. 566 departed for Tokyo, travelling a distance of  450.5 km in 2 hours and 56 minutes. This was a tick off my bucket list as riding the shinkansen (bullet train) has always been on the list of things that I want to do after learning about it in my Geography lesson. It definitely was not a cheap ride as it costs about RM500 each, but it is worth the experience.

Leading the way to board the shinkansen

Our shinkansen pulls in

Lovey dove on the shinkansen

        After arriving at Tokyo Station, we made our way to the Chuo Line and stopped at the Ueno Station. Our sole purpose of doing this was to get to the Hard Rock Cafe shop to add to our collection of Hard Rock Cafe t-shirts. After that, we hopped back onto the train and headed for the Shinjuku Station.

Such a convenient Hard Rock Cafe shop!

        Emerging from the Shinjuku Station, we had our first glimpse of Tokyo from above ground. Tokyo is definitely warmer and bustling with people. The temperature was about 15 degrees Celsius but it felt like 23 degrees! We had to jostle our way for about 650 metres to get to Ibis Tokyo Shinjuku, where we were spending the night. 
        After dumping our bags and freshening up, we walked out in search of food. There were tons of choices available but we finally settled for a tiny shop located 2 floors below ground level. What an experience! It was our first time entering a doorway and then climbing 2 flights of narrow winding stairs DOWN to reach this tiny eatery. Japan is definitely full of new experiences for us to try. Derrick chose a rice bowl topped with ginger-fried pork (¥840 for a large bowl) while I ordered the katsudon (a deep fried pork cutlet rice bowl ¥630).

Let's venture down!

Tired face after all the travelling

Christmas festive air in Tokyo

        Before returning to our hotel, we located the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal as on the next morning, we would be catching an early morning bus there to our next destination. But for now, it's Oyasumi nasai (Good night) after a long day of travelling.

Relishing Ramen in Ipoh

        Avidly reading some local food blogs and joining a Ipoh community group on Facebook keep me in the loop when new and tasty eateries sprout up. I was excited to know that a ramen establishment had opened in Ipoh's Old Town and had generated good reviews. And so, after our gym workout this evening, Derrick and I headed to Mad Ramen Bar for dinner.

Face of glee 

Situated at 3, Jalan Panglima (just opposite Plan B)

        The place was packed although it was still fairly early in the evening. The friendly staff ushered us to seats at the bar, and later offered us a table after it had been vacated. In addition to ramen, diners can choose to have donburi (ricebowls), yakitori (grilled skewered meat), desserts, non-alcoholic drinks, mocktails and cocktails. 

Observing the bartender as the samurai on the wall observe us

        I decided to try their Black Tonkotsu Ramen (RM19.80), which has really springy ramen in a flavourful black garlic and black sesame tonkotsu pork broth that had been simmered for over 8 hours. It is served with tender pork chasu, braised tamago, black fungus and spring onions. Biting into the braised tamago (egg) really brought back all the sweet memories of last year's Japan trip.

My Black Tonkotsu Ramen

        Derrick was in porky heaven with his Pork Rib Black Shoyu Ramen (RM21.80). He was given a glove to devour his pork rib with ease. In addition, we shared a plate of Chicken Teriyaki Bites (RM9.80), which was just as yummy.

Derrick's Pork Rib Black Shoyu Ramen

Chicken Teriyaki Bites

        Our ramen selections this evening were from the Tonkotsu spread, which originates from Fukuoka, Kyushu. I made a mental note to try one of the Hokkaido ramen offerings on our next visit, which I suspect would be in the near future, judging from the way Derrick was raving about the food long after dinner was over. I was told that the Hokkaido ramen broth is lighter but just as tasty.
        We resisted the urge to order the goma (black sesame) and matcha (green tea) ice cream as we had a tub of Haagen-Dazs Hojicha Latte ice cream awaiting us in our freezer. And I was thrilled to spot hojicha (roasted green tea) latte on the menu. That's for our next visit!

Being Allured By Honshu - Day 7

        After breakfast (we chose to have Western breakfast again) at Nakayasu Ryokan, we had to check out and make our way to the bus stop just behind the ryokan. We were pleasantly surprised to be presented with a farewell token by the ryokan owner. The 2 pairs of hashi (Japanese chopsticks) now occupy a spot in our Ikea Detolf glass cabinet for ornaments that we pick up from our travels.
        Although it was a Sunday morning, the public bus came right on schedule. We paid ¥200 per person for a ride to the Kanazawa Station, where we boarded the 9.40 a.m. Hokutetsu bus to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shirakawa-go (白川郷). The 1 hour 15 minutes journey to Shirakawa-go costs ¥1850 each. The bus was comfortable and equipped with free wi-fi.

Quiet streets on a Sunday morning

Pretty Kanazawa Station

        This mountain settlement was once a wild and unexplored region. Its distinctive large roofed gassho-styled houses, especially in a winter scene, immediately come to mind when Shirakawa-go is mentioned. I can now tick it off my bucket list.
        I had originally wanted to spend the night at one of the minshukus (family-run gassho farmhouses) but they were all fully booked. Upon arrival at the Shirakawa-go Bus Terminal, I was really glad it turned out this way as the accommodation that I had finally settled on was a mere 3-minute walk away. On the other hand, if we were staying in one of the minshukus,  we would have had to lug our suitcases further away whilst jostling with the throngs of tourists.

We were provided with a map to guide us around

        Our room at the Shirakawa-go no Yu Hotel would only be ready at 3 p.m. so we left our suitcases at the lobby and ventured out to explore. We walked uphill for 20 minutes to the Ogimachi Castle observation deck. If walking uphill is not one's forte, one could take a ride on the shuttle bus for ¥200. From the vantage point, a view of all the gassho-styled houses could be enjoyed. Before we descended, we tried the steamed beef bun and Hida curry beef stick (¥400 each). The latter, especially, was so yummy!

Loved this crispy Hida curry beef stick!

Clear waters of the river just behind our hotel

        Truth be told, wandering around Shirakawa-go at ground level was much better than viewing it from the observation deck. It was like a dream come true for me to see the gassho-styled houses up close. The shape of the thatched roofs resemble hands in prayer. The steep slopes enable snow to slip off, hence protecting the houses from being crushed by heavy snowfall.

Behold the magical Shirakawa-go!

Beautiful at every turn of the corner

Spot the odd one out

Picture perfect

        Although many of the gassho-styled houses have been turned into museums, gift shops and hostels, some were still private homes. Both Derrick and I really enjoyed ourselves exploring the village, looking for suitable spots to return to for photography, popping into the many gift shops to pick up a souvenir or two and also pausing by friendly windows for some snacks. We shared a Hida beef skewer (¥550 each) as well as matcha vanilla ice cream (¥350 each)...Totemo oishi! 

Interesting to look at

This was heavenly!

Come home with me?

In love with Shirakawa-go

        Still feeling hungry, we had a late lunch at Keyaki, located along the main road. Both my udon noodles with nameko mushrooms (¥756 each) and Derrick's Hida beef curry rice (¥1100 each) were so delicious.

Our late lunch ... yummy indeed!

Outside Keyaki

Day trippers start leaving the village

        We then returned to our hotel for a rest. Our room was ready and our suitcases had already been taken to our room. We had booked a Western-styled room but bathroom facilities were shared. Needless to say, we proceeded to unwind at the indoor and outdoor onsen. Being one of the few places in Shirakawa-go to offer the hot spring baths facilities, tourists spending the night at other accommodations can also come to Shirakawa-go no Yu Hotel to use the onsen for a fee.
        At 6.30 p.m., clad in yukatas (Japanese robe), we joined other hotel guests for another must-do for visitors to Japan - a kaiseki (traditional multi-course Japanese dinner). The elaborate meal, which was included in our accommodation price, was truly a feast for the eyes and the palate. There were appetiser, sashimi, pickled vegetables, assorted tofu, grilled salmon, miso soup, a small hot pot, Hida beef slices, rice and desert. I especially enjoyed the tender beef slices that I had to cook over the flame.

A kaiseki - truly an experience to try whilst visiting Japan

Poised to feast

Grilling my Hida beef slices 

        After dinner, we dressed warmly and went out for a romantic stroll in the dark in the crisp autumn air. Later, we enjoyed some local sake (Japanese rice wine) in our room before calling it a day.

Derrick cleverly bought this sake (¥450) from one of the shops for a nightcap.

Being Allured By Honshu - Day 6

        Breakfast was included in our accommodation package at Nakayasu Ryokan. We were the only ones who chose to have a Western style breakfast, which consisted of cereal, pancakes with honey, omelette, bacon, fruits and coffee.

Simple yet tasty breakfast served at Nakayasu Ryokan

        The weather, unfortunately, was not on our side this morning. It was gloomy and there was a light drizzle when we ventured out. Nevertheless, we made our way to Kenrokuen Garden, one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan (the other 2 being Korakuen in Okayama and Kairakuen in Mito). Entrance fee into this 25-acre garden costs ¥310 each. Just as we were about to start exploring the vast garden, it started pouring and we had to seek shelter at the souvenir shop. It was there that Derrick spotted an adorable zodiac tea towel (¥650), which we bought and have had it framed up in Ipoh.
        It cleared up a little and we started exploring, amidst a slight drizzle. Kenrokuen is truly beautiful, and even more so, with all the red autumn leaves. We fell in love with every corner that we turned.   And we spent many hours in Kenrokuen, so it was past midday when we left.

Wandering around with a hat to protect my hair from the light drizzle

The Kotoji Toro (a two-legged stone lantern)

Duck duck comes out to play

Red carpet

Astounding beauty of Kenrokuen

And the path goes on

Dedicated photographers

        Fortunately, we found a restaurant just opposite Kourin Sushi that was still serving lunch. We both ordered the pork cutlet rice bowl, which also came with a small udon (¥780). It was really yummy! 

Hungry and eager to start eating

Yummy katsudon

        After that, we walked around and found ourselves at the Gyokusen-inmaru Garden, which was the residence of the wife of a feudal lord. From there, we went on to explore the grounds of Kanazawa Castle. 

Well-manicured Gyokusen-inmaru Garden

Lovely to meander around

Despite not being a sea of red, it was still idyllic here at Gyokusen-inmaru Garden

Kanazawa Castle's whitish roof tiles are made of lead

"Follow me?"

Got to rest my weary feet

Blissful rest

        We decided to return to our ryokan to rest and to delight in the onsen. En route, we stopped to buy corn croquette (¥79) and pau (¥167) from 7-Eleven to munch on. 
        Later, we returned to 7-Eleven for an economical dinner (¥1299 for both of us) before proceeding to Kenrokuen for the Night Illumination. It was so crowded and we were practically inching forward around the grounds to marvel at the beautiful garden with its magical lights. It turned out that this was the last night of the Autumn Night Illumination, hence the big crowd!

This is the 7-Eleven store that we patronised.

My shrimp gratin

Night Illumination at Kenrokuen

The illuminated Kotoji Toro