Relishing Ramen in Ipoh

        Avidly reading some local food blogs and joining a Ipoh community group on Facebook keep me in the loop when new and tasty eateries sprout up. I was excited to know that a ramen establishment had opened in Ipoh's Old Town and had generated good reviews. And so, after our gym workout this evening, Derrick and I headed to Mad Ramen Bar for dinner.

Face of glee 

Situated at 3, Jalan Panglima (just opposite Plan B)

        The place was packed although it was still fairly early in the evening. The friendly staff ushered us to seats at the bar, and later offered us a table after it had been vacated. In addition to ramen, diners can choose to have donburi (ricebowls), yakitori (grilled skewered meat), desserts, non-alcoholic drinks, mocktails and cocktails. 

Observing the bartender as the samurai on the wall observe us

        I decided to try their Black Tonkotsu Ramen (RM19.80), which has really springy ramen in a flavourful black garlic and black sesame tonkotsu pork broth that had been simmered for over 8 hours. It is served with tender pork chasu, braised tamago, black fungus and spring onions. Biting into the braised tamago (egg) really brought back all the sweet memories of last year's Japan trip.

My Black Tonkotsu Ramen

        Derrick was in porky heaven with his Pork Rib Black Shoyu Ramen (RM21.80). He was given a glove to devour his pork rib with ease. In addition, we shared a plate of Chicken Teriyaki Bites (RM9.80), which was just as yummy.

Derrick's Pork Rib Black Shoyu Ramen

Chicken Teriyaki Bites

        Our ramen selections this evening were from the Tonkotsu spread, which originates from Fukuoka, Kyushu. I made a mental note to try one of the Hokkaido ramen offerings on our next visit, which I suspect would be in the near future, judging from the way Derrick was raving about the food long after dinner was over. I was told that the Hokkaido ramen broth is lighter but just as tasty.
        We resisted the urge to order the goma (black sesame) and matcha (green tea) ice cream as we had a tub of Haagen-Dazs Hojicha Latte ice cream awaiting us in our freezer. And I was thrilled to spot hojicha (roasted green tea) latte on the menu. That's for our next visit!

Being Allured By Honshu - Day 7

        After breakfast (we chose to have Western breakfast again) at Nakayasu Ryokan, we had to check out and make our way to the bus stop just behind the ryokan. We were pleasantly surprised to be presented with a farewell token by the ryokan owner. The 2 pairs of hashi (Japanese chopsticks) now occupy a spot in our Ikea Detolf glass cabinet for ornaments that we pick up from our travels.
        Although it was a Sunday morning, the public bus came right on schedule. We paid ¥200 per person for a ride to the Kanazawa Station, where we boarded the 9.40 a.m. Hokutetsu bus to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shirakawa-go (白川郷). The 1 hour 15 minutes journey to Shirakawa-go costs ¥1850 each. The bus was comfortable and equipped with free wi-fi.

Quiet streets on a Sunday morning

Pretty Kanazawa Station

        This mountain settlement was once a wild and unexplored region. Its distinctive large roofed gassho-styled houses, especially in a winter scene, immediately come to mind when Shirakawa-go is mentioned. I can now tick it off my bucket list.
        I had originally wanted to spend the night at one of the minshukus (family-run gassho farmhouses) but they were all fully booked. Upon arrival at the Shirakawa-go Bus Terminal, I was really glad it turned out this way as the accommodation that I had finally settled on was a mere 3-minute walk away. On the other hand, if we were staying in one of the minshukus,  we would have had to lug our suitcases further away whilst jostling with the throngs of tourists.

We were provided with a map to guide us around

        Our room at the Shirakawa-go no Yu Hotel would only be ready at 3 p.m. so we left our suitcases at the lobby and ventured out to explore. We walked uphill for 20 minutes to the Ogimachi Castle observation deck. If walking uphill is not one's forte, one could take a ride on the shuttle bus for ¥200. From the vantage point, a view of all the gassho-styled houses could be enjoyed. Before we descended, we tried the steamed beef bun and Hida curry beef stick (¥400 each). The latter, especially, was so yummy!

Loved this crispy Hida curry beef stick!

Clear waters of the river just behind our hotel

        Truth be told, wandering around Shirakawa-go at ground level was much better than viewing it from the observation deck. It was like a dream come true for me to see the gassho-styled houses up close. The shape of the thatched roofs resemble hands in prayer. The steep slopes enable snow to slip off, hence protecting the houses from being crushed by heavy snowfall.

Behold the magical Shirakawa-go!

Beautiful at every turn of the corner

Spot the odd one out

Picture perfect

        Although many of the gassho-styled houses have been turned into museums, gift shops and hostels, some were still private homes. Both Derrick and I really enjoyed ourselves exploring the village, looking for suitable spots to return to for photography, popping into the many gift shops to pick up a souvenir or two and also pausing by friendly windows for some snacks. We shared a Hida beef skewer (¥550 each) as well as matcha vanilla ice cream (¥350 each)...Totemo oishi! 

Interesting to look at

This was heavenly!

Come home with me?

In love with Shirakawa-go

        Still feeling hungry, we had a late lunch at Keyaki, located along the main road. Both my udon noodles with nameko mushrooms (¥756 each) and Derrick's Hida beef curry rice (¥1100 each) were so delicious.

Our late lunch ... yummy indeed!

Outside Keyaki

Day trippers start leaving the village

        We then returned to our hotel for a rest. Our room was ready and our suitcases had already been taken to our room. We had booked a Western-styled room but bathroom facilities were shared. Needless to say, we proceeded to unwind at the indoor and outdoor onsen. Being one of the few places in Shirakawa-go to offer the hot spring baths facilities, tourists spending the night at other accommodations can also come to Shirakawa-go no Yu Hotel to use the onsen for a fee.
        At 6.30 p.m., clad in yukatas (Japanese robe), we joined other hotel guests for another must-do for visitors to Japan - a kaiseki (traditional multi-course Japanese dinner). The elaborate meal, which was included in our accommodation price, was truly a feast for the eyes and the palate. There were appetiser, sashimi, pickled vegetables, assorted tofu, grilled salmon, miso soup, a small hot pot, Hida beef slices, rice and desert. I especially enjoyed the tender beef slices that I had to cook over the flame.

A kaiseki - truly an experience to try whilst visiting Japan

Poised to feast

Grilling my Hida beef slices 

        After dinner, we dressed warmly and went out for a romantic stroll in the dark in the crisp autumn air. Later, we enjoyed some local sake (Japanese rice wine) in our room before calling it a day.

Derrick cleverly bought this sake (¥450) from one of the shops for a nightcap.

Being Allured By Honshu - Day 6

        Breakfast was included in our accommodation package at Nakayasu Ryokan. We were the only ones who chose to have a Western style breakfast, which consisted of cereal, pancakes with honey, omelette, bacon, fruits and coffee.

Simple yet tasty breakfast served at Nakayasu Ryokan

        The weather, unfortunately, was not on our side this morning. It was gloomy and there was a light drizzle when we ventured out. Nevertheless, we made our way to Kenrokuen Garden, one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan (the other 2 being Korakuen in Okayama and Kairakuen in Mito). Entrance fee into this 25-acre garden costs ¥310 each. Just as we were about to start exploring the vast garden, it started pouring and we had to seek shelter at the souvenir shop. It was there that Derrick spotted an adorable zodiac tea towel (¥650), which we bought and have had it framed up in Ipoh.
        It cleared up a little and we started exploring, amidst a slight drizzle. Kenrokuen is truly beautiful, and even more so, with all the red autumn leaves. We fell in love with every corner that we turned.   And we spent many hours in Kenrokuen, so it was past midday when we left.

Wandering around with a hat to protect my hair from the light drizzle

The Kotoji Toro (a two-legged stone lantern)

Duck duck comes out to play

Red carpet

Astounding beauty of Kenrokuen

And the path goes on

Dedicated photographers

        Fortunately, we found a restaurant just opposite Kourin Sushi that was still serving lunch. We both ordered the pork cutlet rice bowl, which also came with a small udon (¥780). It was really yummy! 

Hungry and eager to start eating

Yummy katsudon

        After that, we walked around and found ourselves at the Gyokusen-inmaru Garden, which was the residence of the wife of a feudal lord. From there, we went on to explore the grounds of Kanazawa Castle. 

Well-manicured Gyokusen-inmaru Garden

Lovely to meander around

Despite not being a sea of red, it was still idyllic here at Gyokusen-inmaru Garden

Kanazawa Castle's whitish roof tiles are made of lead

"Follow me?"

Got to rest my weary feet

Blissful rest

        We decided to return to our ryokan to rest and to delight in the onsen. En route, we stopped to buy corn croquette (¥79) and pau (¥167) from 7-Eleven to munch on. 
        Later, we returned to 7-Eleven for an economical dinner (¥1299 for both of us) before proceeding to Kenrokuen for the Night Illumination. It was so crowded and we were practically inching forward around the grounds to marvel at the beautiful garden with its magical lights. It turned out that this was the last night of the Autumn Night Illumination, hence the big crowd!

This is the 7-Eleven store that we patronised.

My shrimp gratin

Night Illumination at Kenrokuen

The illuminated Kotoji Toro

Being Allured By Honshu - Day 5

       

Tonkotsu (Creamy Pork Bone Broth) Ramen

        To get one last taste of Kyoto ramen before we left this city, which was once the capital of Japan, Derrick and I woke up early and walked approximately 8 minutes to Kyoto Takahashi Honke Daichi Asahi at Shimogyo-ku for breakfast. I had read from the Internet that this ramen shop opens from 5 a.m. to 2 a.m. and is very popular amongst locals who go there for a hearty breakfast before they proceed to Kyoto Station to commute to work. After a short wait outside the shop, it was our turn to be seated. Service was quick and the ramen in tonkotsu shoyu soup was indeed tasty. Our breakfast came up to 1700 yen.

Queueing patiently outside the ramen shop

Derrick eagerly awaits his ramen

"Can I finish this hearty breakfast at such an early hour?"

        We checked out of Hotel Hokke Club Kyoto and crossed the road to Kyoto Station. I again gave myself a pat on the back for choosing this conveniently-located hotel. Our 10.09 a.m. JR Thunderbird train pulled in and departed punctually. It was a comfortable 2 hours and 10 minutes ride to Kanazawa. 

JR Thunderbird pulls into Platform 0 at Kyoto Station

         Upon arrival at Kanazawa Station, which is one of the world's most beautiful train stations according to the Travel & Leisure Magazine, we went to the JR Ticket Office to purchase our shinkansen tickets to Tokyo for 3 December (13,600 yen). We then got out of the station via the East Gate and walked to the left in search of the Hokutetsu Bus office to re-confirm our bus to Shirakawago on 2 December. After that, we got onto the Kenrokuen Shuttle bus (200 yen) and stopped at the Musashigatsuchi Omi-cho Market bus stop. From there, we had to walk for 5 minutes to reach our accommodation for the next 2 nights. We were staying at the family-run Nakayasu Ryokan,established in 1920.

The welcoming entrance into Nakayasu Ryokan

              Visitors to Kanazawa will definitely head to Kanazawa Castle, Kenrokuen Garden, Omicho Market and Higashichaya District, all of which are within walking distance from Nakayasu Ryokan. The bus stand from which to board a bus to Kanazawa Station is just behind the Ryokan, so you can save on taxi fare. Staff is most polite and helpful. The young receptionist even insisted on helping to carry my heavy suitcase up the steep stairs. Our tatami room was fairly spacious, and there was definitely ample space to move around, unlike what some TripAdvisor reviewers had said. We were fortunate to have an ensuite bathroom, although we also did use the onsen downstairs. The onsen was small but clean and well-maintained, with good toiletries provided.
        It was almost mid-afternoon by the time we were settled in, and our tummies were rumbling. The receptionist pointed us in the direction of the famous Omicho Market, also known as Kanazawa's Kitchen. It has been Kanazawa's largest fresh food market since the Edo period. There were tons of shops and stalls to browse around, but of course, it pales in comparison to Kyoto's Nishiki Market. Our late lunch was at a shop that serves fresh seafood, sushi and oden (assortment of seafood cooked in a soy-flavoured dash broth). The oden appeared to be the Japanese version of lok-lok. Our meal came up to 2630 yen. Whilst wandering around the market, we also bought some bananas (200 yen) and tried the yummy soy milk fried bun (200 yen). 

We had our lunch here : Ippukuya Oden 

Oden, which reminds me of Malaysian lok-lok

Ebiten (shrimp tempura) and boiled eggs (400 yen and 300 yen)

Deep fried oysters (900 yen)

Grilled scallop (650 yen)

Tuna roll (380 yen)

"Let's feast!"

Exploring Omicho Market

These yummy soy milk fried bun were rather like fried mantao

        After filling our tummies, we decided to walk about 500 metres to the Kanazawa Castle Park. It was a lovely autumn afternoon and it sure was delightful to just stroll around, capturing pictures here and there. Before heading back to our ryokan to rest and soak in the onsen, we also  bought some rice crackers to try later (270 yen for 2).

An autumn afternoon at Kanazawa Castle Park (the road in the background leads up to Kanazawa Castle)

The Autumunalis Makino or Winter-flowering Cherry Blossom stands out amongst the autumn foliage

Delighted to view cherry blossoms in autumn

Glorious autumn leaves everywhere...truly a sight to behold!

Some are nearing their end

Autumn sky

Autumn ground

       

Such an inviting public toilet!

Romantic walk by the river in the early autumn evening

        I had made reservations via Facebook to have dinner at Kourin Sushi, located 350m from our ryokan. It is a popular tiny restaurant that serves incredibly fresh and tasty sushi, so reservations are highly necessary. Our 2740 yen dinner was indeed delicious, but we thought that Mokuren back in Ipoh serves sushi that is just as tasty.

Our first proper sushi meal in Honshu

Grilled mackerel sushi (700 yen)

Seafood sushi roll (1000 yen)

Crab sushi (150 yen)

Japanese omelette (390 yen)

The most exquisite green tea ice cream (300 yen)

Kourin Sushi is located at the corner of  street leading to Kanazawa Castle

        After dinner, we had a walk around the grounds of Kanazawa Castle (free admission), which was all lit up for the Night Illumination. Both Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen Garden are illuminated on some evenings in every season. It was truly a mystical atmosphere, and we planned to marvel at the Night Illumination of Kenrokuen Garden the following evening.

A little scary to enter but I had my darling with me

Beautifully lit up

Wondrous Night Illumination at Kanazawa Castle

Truly ichiban!

          But for now...it's time to stroll back to our ryokan whilst enjoying the crisp autumn air...to warm ourselves up with hot green tea and munch on rice crackers back in our tatami room...before we call it a day.

Getting comfy in our yukatas