Being Allured By Honshu - Day 5

       

Tonkotsu (Creamy Pork Bone Broth) Ramen

        To get one last taste of Kyoto ramen before we left this city, which was once the capital of Japan, Derrick and I woke up early and walked approximately 8 minutes to Kyoto Takahashi Honke Daichi Asahi at Shimogyo-ku for breakfast. I had read from the Internet that this ramen shop opens from 5 a.m. to 2 a.m. and is very popular amongst locals who go there for a hearty breakfast before they proceed to Kyoto Station to commute to work. After a short wait outside the shop, it was our turn to be seated. Service was quick and the ramen in tonkotsu shoyu soup was indeed tasty. Our breakfast came up to 1700 yen.

Queueing patiently outside the ramen shop

Derrick eagerly awaits his ramen

"Can I finish this hearty breakfast at such an early hour?"

        We checked out of Hotel Hokke Club Kyoto and crossed the road to Kyoto Station. I again gave myself a pat on the back for choosing this conveniently-located hotel. Our 10.09 a.m. JR Thunderbird train pulled in and departed punctually. It was a comfortable 2 hours and 10 minutes ride to Kanazawa. 

JR Thunderbird pulls into Platform 0 at Kyoto Station

         Upon arrival at Kanazawa Station, which is one of the world's most beautiful train stations according to the Travel & Leisure Magazine, we went to the JR Ticket Office to purchase our shinkansen tickets to Tokyo for 3 December (13,600 yen). We then got out of the station via the East Gate and walked to the left in search of the Hokutetsu Bus office to re-confirm our bus to Shirakawago on 2 December. After that, we got onto the Kenrokuen Shuttle bus (200 yen) and stopped at the Musashigatsuchi Omi-cho Market bus stop. From there, we had to walk for 5 minutes to reach our accommodation for the next 2 nights. We were staying at the family-run Nakayasu Ryokan,established in 1920.

The welcoming entrance into Nakayasu Ryokan

              Visitors to Kanazawa will definitely head to Kanazawa Castle, Kenrokuen Garden, Omicho Market and Higashichaya District, all of which are within walking distance from Nakayasu Ryokan. The bus stand from which to board a bus to Kanazawa Station is just behind the Ryokan, so you can save on taxi fare. Staff is most polite and helpful. The young receptionist even insisted on helping to carry my heavy suitcase up the steep stairs. Our tatami room was fairly spacious, and there was definitely ample space to move around, unlike what some TripAdvisor reviewers had said. We were fortunate to have an ensuite bathroom, although we also did use the onsen downstairs. The onsen was small but clean and well-maintained, with good toiletries provided.
        It was almost mid-afternoon by the time we were settled in, and our tummies were rumbling. The receptionist pointed us in the direction of the famous Omicho Market, also known as Kanazawa's Kitchen. It has been Kanazawa's largest fresh food market since the Edo period. There were tons of shops and stalls to browse around, but of course, it pales in comparison to Kyoto's Nishiki Market. Our late lunch was at a shop that serves fresh seafood, sushi and oden (assortment of seafood cooked in a soy-flavoured dash broth). The oden appeared to be the Japanese version of lok-lok. Our meal came up to 2630 yen. Whilst wandering around the market, we also bought some bananas (200 yen) and tried the yummy soy milk fried bun (200 yen). 

We had our lunch here : Ippukuya Oden 

Oden, which reminds me of Malaysian lok-lok

Ebiten (shrimp tempura) and boiled eggs (400 yen and 300 yen)

Deep fried oysters (900 yen)

Grilled scallop (650 yen)

Tuna roll (380 yen)

"Let's feast!"

Exploring Omicho Market

These yummy soy milk fried bun were rather like fried mantao

        After filling our tummies, we decided to walk about 500 metres to the Kanazawa Castle Park. It was a lovely autumn afternoon and it sure was delightful to just stroll around, capturing pictures here and there. Before heading back to our ryokan to rest and soak in the onsen, we also  bought some rice crackers to try later (270 yen for 2).

An autumn afternoon at Kanazawa Castle Park (the road in the background leads up to Kanazawa Castle)

The Autumunalis Makino or Winter-flowering Cherry Blossom stands out amongst the autumn foliage

Delighted to view cherry blossoms in autumn

Glorious autumn leaves everywhere...truly a sight to behold!

Some are nearing their end

Autumn sky

Autumn ground

       

Such an inviting public toilet!

Romantic walk by the river in the early autumn evening

        I had made reservations via Facebook to have dinner at Kourin Sushi, located 350m from our ryokan. It is a popular tiny restaurant that serves incredibly fresh and tasty sushi, so reservations are highly necessary. Our 2740 yen dinner was indeed delicious, but we thought that Mokuren back in Ipoh serves sushi that is just as tasty.

Our first proper sushi meal in Honshu

Grilled mackerel sushi (700 yen)

Seafood sushi roll (1000 yen)

Crab sushi (150 yen)

Japanese omelette (390 yen)

The most exquisite green tea ice cream (300 yen)

Kourin Sushi is located at the corner of  street leading to Kanazawa Castle

        After dinner, we had a walk around the grounds of Kanazawa Castle (free admission), which was all lit up for the Night Illumination. Both Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen Garden are illuminated on some evenings in every season. It was truly a mystical atmosphere, and we planned to marvel at the Night Illumination of Kenrokuen Garden the following evening.

A little scary to enter but I had my darling with me

Beautifully lit up

Wondrous Night Illumination at Kanazawa Castle

Truly ichiban!

          But for now...it's time to stroll back to our ryokan whilst enjoying the crisp autumn air...to warm ourselves up with hot green tea and munch on rice crackers back in our tatami room...before we call it a day.

Getting comfy in our yukatas

Loving My New Toy

        Besides suffering from osteoarthritis of the knee (the early onset brought on by a previous ligament injury sustained while conquering Mount Kinabalu), I have been plagued by a calcaneal spur on my left heel after completing a run in March. Having to stand a lot at work has aggravated my pains. This has gotten hubby rather concerned as it is now common to see his wife grimacing as she hobbles around.

        He then decided to get OSIM's uPhoria Warm, a 5-in-1 foot and calf massager for me. Priced at RM2388 (now with a discount of RM100), this 20kg wonder machine delivers enhanced calf-gliding with kneading massage, wrap-around squeeze massage, roller reflexology massage, vibration massage and warmth therapy (hence, 5-in-1). There are 8 different 15-minute programmes to choose from, depending on your needs.

OSIM's uPhoria Warm

        I tried the Relax and Sleep programmes last night after unboxing my new toy. The Relax massage programme aims to relax tight muscles and relieve deep-seated aches while the Sleep programme gives gentle massage actions to soothe your legs in preparation for a good night's sleep. The result : I slept like a baby throughout the night and my first few steps out of the bed were just mildly painful.

Side view of uPhoria Warm (I unzipped the fabric covering)

Front view 

Programmes panel

        After coming home from breakfast this morning and doing some chores around the house, I pampered myself with a Senior massage programme for some gentle stimulation and comfort. I plan to go for the Sports Recovery programme after getting home from my gym workout later. That promises to help loosen tense muscles and actively promote circulation to enhance the recovery process for muscles used during sports.

        In addition to the 4 massage programmes mentioned, there are also the High-Heels programme (which targets the calves, ankle, balls and arches of the feet), the Toning programme (which strengthens muscles, improves blood circulation and prevents the build-up of toxins), the Energise programme for some intense massage actions to reinvigorate the legs and the Reflexology programme that targets the key meridian and vital reflex points. I can't wait to try them all!

        Merci beaucoup, mon amour, for this superb birthday present! Hopefully, my pains will be alleviated and I don't have to keep holding you up when we walk.

Reliving Childhood Memories at FMS

       

Durbar is a Persian word that means a great ceremonial hall receiving visitors for formal and informal receptions, meetings and gatherings

        Back in the 80s, there wasn't a plethora of eateries serving Western food around in Ipoh. But there were several steadfast establishments that Ipoh folk could find delight in. And one of them was the Hainanese bar and restaurant, FMS (an acronym for Federated Malay States), located just across the Ipoh Padang in Old Town. It was a typical British colonial style eatery that had those vintage saloon or bar doors seen in cowboy movies. And it was where people in Ipoh could find tasty Hainanese fare.

Durbar at FMS occupies a corner lot just across the Ipoh Padang, a stone's throw away from St. Michael's Institution

Side entrance

Colonial style sidewalk

        When FMS ceased operations more than a decade ago, the older generation mourned its loss. The younger generation was unaffected as many fancier cafes have sprouted up all over Ipoh. Those of us, who are middle-aged, were caught in between. But when news spread that FMS was opening its doors again, we were stirred. 
        With a new name, Durbar at FMS, this refurbished colonial restaurant has sent Ipoh all abuzz. Thanks to Mr. Seow Wee Liam, an architect from St. Michael's Institution just around the corner, you can momentarily forget that you are in the 21st century when you walk in. Antiques and artefacts, especially reminiscent of the British colonial days, abound. Of course you will very soon be brought back to the present age of technology when you see orders being made using tablets!

The interior of Durbar at FMS

A beautifully-restored FMS

Colonial vibes

Phone from the glorious past

        For me, it was indeed a walk into my childhood. Not only did I used to frequent this bar with my uncles, aunts and cousins, I practically grew up on Ipoh Swimming Club food. Knowing that Ah Kong, the old chef at Ipoh Swimming Club  is now at the helm in the kitchen of Durbar at FMS, it's a chance to taste his comfort food again. And as we walked in this afternoon, we were warmly greeted by Kevin, who used to be a waiter at Ipoh Swimming Club. All the food featured in the menu were just like what we used to have in Ipoh Swimming Club.
        Papa ordered the Oxtail Soup and Hainanese Chicken Chop. Despite being a finicky eater where Western food is concerned, Papa nodded his approval for both. He ended his meal with a cup of kopi-o, and was truly pleased with it. It was as black, as kaw, and as sweet as he likes it. 

Priced at RM16 and served with a slice of garlic toast, the Oxtail Soup was  flavourful.

This Hainanese Chicken Chop (RM20) had all the right notes.

        Being a small eater, Mummy had just the Prawn Cocktail and the Baked Stuffed Crab. Her verdict : the Baked Stuffed Crab's delicious, but it still cannot hold a candle to the one at Coliseum, Kuala Lumpur.

Classic Prawn Cocktail (RM12)

Baked Stuffed Crab (RM25)

        Derrick was still full from his hearty wanton mee breakfast so he was happy with an Oxtail Soup and the Club Sandwich.

Durbar Club Sandwich (RM15)

        I had dreadfully missed Ah Kong's Seafood au Gratin so of course I had to order that today. It was as creamy and yummy as I remember it to be. 

My very scrumptious Seafood au Gratin (RM28)

Face of glee

        For dessert, Derrick and I shared the Crepe Suzette. It has always been my all-time favourite dessert and I'm glad that I have now converted Derrick into being its die-hard fan too. He was still ooh-ing and aah-ing about it long after we had left the place.

Kevin renders his loving touch on our Crepe Suzette

        I had a brief chat with Mr. Seow as I was picking up the tab. I had earlier chatted with him online to make today's reservations. He is as affable in person as he is in on Facebook. And I assured him that I would be giving Durbar at FMS favourable reviews. I silently added that I will be back, to relive my childhood memories, and for the simple good food.
        

Combatting Hurt with Yoga

        Even when a good friend at work was raving about the benefits of yoga, I could not be persuaded to give it a try. I stubbornly insisted that I was not flexible enough. This was 15 years ago.
        After I turned 40, I resolved to experiment with a variety of exercises like Zumba, Piloxing, TRX and even yoga. It was definitely not love at first sight for yoga and I, but I gradually found my body getting more and more attuned to it.

I still cannot perfect the Downward Dog pose but am slowly getting better (picture taken from the Internet)

        Despite people and articles extolling the multifarious benefits of yoga, I was only half convinced. However, a recent incident changed my perception and belief in yoga.
        An unfair and cruel action from a vengeful hypocrite had spiralled me into the doldrums. I broke down, at home and even at my workplace. Although I know I was a fool to be so badly affected, I could not help it. In spite of being on medication, my blood pressure was high, partly also because my sleep was affected.
        I remembered that one of the virtues of practising yoga was the calming effect it induces. So I rolled out my mat,  forced my body to move from pose to pose, and willed my mind to filter out negative thoughts. For the first two mornings, it hardly worked as my mind was still in turmoil. On the third morning yoga practice after that spiteful incident, I felt a strange sense of calm and detachment. I could think of that person without feeling anything, not even anger. And when I checked my blood pressure, it was within normal range although I had not even taken my morning dose of medication! No wonder people say yoga can battle depression.
        Sitting cross-legged on the mat and just meditating is an excellent pose to begin a yoga session. Most of the time, I have to force myself to just sit still, abandon all thoughts and focus on my breathing. This is best done early in the morning as I can hear the birds chirping outside my window. And this time around, I found myself smiling with each breath I inhaled.

Meditating on the mat (picture taken from the Internet)

        Side twists have been touted to be a wonderful posture for dealing with stress, hurt and anxiety.  I do side twists at every yoga practice and had felt my back muscles being soothed. But this time, I could feel my stored tension being released with every twist. And the longer I held my twist, the lighter I felt.

Side twists (picture from the Internet)

        Everyone who practises yoga knows that the Child's Pose is one of the most soothing poses. Doing the Child's Pose with the aid of my yoga wheel enables me to experience a deeper stretch. And the further I stretched, I could feel the tension ebbing away.

Wheel-assisted Child's Pose (photo taken from the Internet)

        I have always loved using my yoga wheel to do a backbend. It may seem rather daunting at first glance but you have to convince yourself to just let go. A backbend always works wonders in relieving back pain. And this time as I bent my back and let my head rest on the mat, it felt like more than just the back muscles relaxing. With my shoulders and arms limp, I surrendered and let myself loose.

Wheel-assisted backbend (photo taken from the Internet)

        Although all these poses are usually incorporated in my morning yoga sessions, it was this time around that I felt it working through my mind and body. I had desperately needed the release and must have willed my mind to purge all negativity so as to concentrate on every move. And with that, I reaped the benefits of yoga for the very first time.