Reliving Childhood Memories at FMS

       

Durbar is a Persian word that means a great ceremonial hall receiving visitors for formal and informal receptions, meetings and gatherings

        Back in the 80s, there wasn't a plethora of eateries serving Western food around in Ipoh. But there were several steadfast establishments that Ipoh folk could find delight in. And one of them was the Hainanese bar and restaurant, FMS (an acronym for Federated Malay States), located just across the Ipoh Padang in Old Town. It was a typical British colonial style eatery that had those vintage saloon or bar doors seen in cowboy movies. And it was where people in Ipoh could find tasty Hainanese fare.

Durbar at FMS occupies a corner lot just across the Ipoh Padang, a stone's throw away from St. Michael's Institution

Side entrance

Colonial style sidewalk

        When FMS ceased operations more than a decade ago, the older generation mourned its loss. The younger generation was unaffected as many fancier cafes have sprouted up all over Ipoh. Those of us, who are middle-aged, were caught in between. But when news spread that FMS was opening its doors again, we were stirred. 
        With a new name, Durbar at FMS, this refurbished colonial restaurant has sent Ipoh all abuzz. Thanks to Mr. Seow Wee Liam, an architect from St. Michael's Institution just around the corner, you can momentarily forget that you are in the 21st century when you walk in. Antiques and artefacts, especially reminiscent of the British colonial days, abound. Of course you will very soon be brought back to the present age of technology when you see orders being made using tablets!

The interior of Durbar at FMS

A beautifully-restored FMS

Colonial vibes

Phone from the glorious past

        For me, it was indeed a walk into my childhood. Not only did I used to frequent this bar with my uncles, aunts and cousins, I practically grew up on Ipoh Swimming Club food. Knowing that Ah Kong, the old chef at Ipoh Swimming Club  is now at the helm in the kitchen of Durbar at FMS, it's a chance to taste his comfort food again. And as we walked in this afternoon, we were warmly greeted by Kevin, who used to be a waiter at Ipoh Swimming Club. All the food featured in the menu were just like what we used to have in Ipoh Swimming Club.
        Papa ordered the Oxtail Soup and Hainanese Chicken Chop. Despite being a finicky eater where Western food is concerned, Papa nodded his approval for both. He ended his meal with a cup of kopi-o, and was truly pleased with it. It was as black, as kaw, and as sweet as he likes it. 

Priced at RM16 and served with a slice of garlic toast, the Oxtail Soup was  flavourful.

This Hainanese Chicken Chop (RM20) had all the right notes.

        Being a small eater, Mummy had just the Prawn Cocktail and the Baked Stuffed Crab. Her verdict : the Baked Stuffed Crab's delicious, but it still cannot hold a candle to the one at Coliseum, Kuala Lumpur.

Classic Prawn Cocktail (RM12)

Baked Stuffed Crab (RM25)

        Derrick was still full from his hearty wanton mee breakfast so he was happy with an Oxtail Soup and the Club Sandwich.

Durbar Club Sandwich (RM15)

        I had dreadfully missed Ah Kong's Seafood au Gratin so of course I had to order that today. It was as creamy and yummy as I remember it to be. 

My very scrumptious Seafood au Gratin (RM28)

Face of glee

        For dessert, Derrick and I shared the Crepe Suzette. It has always been my all-time favourite dessert and I'm glad that I have now converted Derrick into being its die-hard fan too. He was still ooh-ing and aah-ing about it long after we had left the place.

Kevin renders his loving touch on our Crepe Suzette

        I had a brief chat with Mr. Seow as I was picking up the tab. I had earlier chatted with him online to make today's reservations. He is as affable in person as he is in on Facebook. And I assured him that I would be giving Durbar at FMS favourable reviews. I silently added that I will be back, to relive my childhood memories, and for the simple good food.
        

Combatting Hurt with Yoga

        Even when a good friend at work was raving about the benefits of yoga, I could not be persuaded to give it a try. I stubbornly insisted that I was not flexible enough. This was 15 years ago.
        After I turned 40, I resolved to experiment with a variety of exercises like Zumba, Piloxing, TRX and even yoga. It was definitely not love at first sight for yoga and I, but I gradually found my body getting more and more attuned to it.

I still cannot perfect the Downward Dog pose but am slowly getting better (picture taken from the Internet)

        Despite people and articles extolling the multifarious benefits of yoga, I was only half convinced. However, a recent incident changed my perception and belief in yoga.
        An unfair and cruel action from a vengeful hypocrite had spiralled me into the doldrums. I broke down, at home and even at my workplace. Although I know I was a fool to be so badly affected, I could not help it. In spite of being on medication, my blood pressure was high, partly also because my sleep was affected.
        I remembered that one of the virtues of practising yoga was the calming effect it induces. So I rolled out my mat,  forced my body to move from pose to pose, and willed my mind to filter out negative thoughts. For the first two mornings, it hardly worked as my mind was still in turmoil. On the third morning yoga practice after that spiteful incident, I felt a strange sense of calm and detachment. I could think of that person without feeling anything, not even anger. And when I checked my blood pressure, it was within normal range although I had not even taken my morning dose of medication! No wonder people say yoga can battle depression.
        Sitting cross-legged on the mat and just meditating is an excellent pose to begin a yoga session. Most of the time, I have to force myself to just sit still, abandon all thoughts and focus on my breathing. This is best done early in the morning as I can hear the birds chirping outside my window. And this time around, I found myself smiling with each breath I inhaled.

Meditating on the mat (picture taken from the Internet)

        Side twists have been touted to be a wonderful posture for dealing with stress, hurt and anxiety.  I do side twists at every yoga practice and had felt my back muscles being soothed. But this time, I could feel my stored tension being released with every twist. And the longer I held my twist, the lighter I felt.

Side twists (picture from the Internet)

        Everyone who practises yoga knows that the Child's Pose is one of the most soothing poses. Doing the Child's Pose with the aid of my yoga wheel enables me to experience a deeper stretch. And the further I stretched, I could feel the tension ebbing away.

Wheel-assisted Child's Pose (photo taken from the Internet)

        I have always loved using my yoga wheel to do a backbend. It may seem rather daunting at first glance but you have to convince yourself to just let go. A backbend always works wonders in relieving back pain. And this time as I bent my back and let my head rest on the mat, it felt like more than just the back muscles relaxing. With my shoulders and arms limp, I surrendered and let myself loose.

Wheel-assisted backbend (photo taken from the Internet)

        Although all these poses are usually incorporated in my morning yoga sessions, it was this time around that I felt it working through my mind and body. I had desperately needed the release and must have willed my mind to purge all negativity so as to concentrate on every move. And with that, I reaped the benefits of yoga for the very first time.

Miseries of a Geisha

           They tell me patience is a virtue, and that good things come to those who wait. So I've walked this way a zillion times. I've come to meet my Mr. Right. He keeps me waiting, wearing my patience thin. But I persist. I'm grateful for the Pagoda, which is a like a beacon of hope to me, urging me to persevere on.

On my own, pretending he's beside me. All alone, I walk with him till morning. Without him, I feel his arms around me. And when I lose my way, I close my eyes, and he has found me.

         The wait is long and the road is lonely. I've been told I am like a pale pink sakura, an intoxicating mixture of beauty and strength. I lean on those words for encouragement, to know that I have the power to capture the heart of my Mr. Right and that I will not falter when opportunities do not seem to go my way. And I look to the Pagoda, which stands majestic and seems to assure me that I'm wise to wait.

O Mr. Right, where art thou?

         Only those who have endured rejection will understand the heartache that I am feeling. I thought we would have a future together but you only entered my life to bring me transient joy. Something in me shattered when you told me we are from different worlds and are just not meant to be. And with every step you took, away from me and towards the Pagoda, the piercing pain deepened.

Mr. A walks away

         You reached out and lifted me out of a world of gloom. You were like an angel sent from heaven above. You made me believe in love again. And just as I was rising from the embers of my painful past, you callously tossed me back into the searing fire. You decided that there is a world to explore, and that being with me will  deny you of the adventure that awaits you. Did you hear the fragments of my heart whimpering piteously as you turned your back on me? Only the Pagoda seemed to nod, ever so slightly, as if to gently nudge me on.

Mr. B's departure

        I felt like a fool to wait, to hope that there is someone out there who will make my life feel complete. And when you danced into my life, I dared to dream again. Life with you was like opening a box of chocolates every day. There were delights and sweetness, and then there were the bitter bits. Opposites do not attract, and we finally concluded that our clashes were tearing us apart. As you walked out of my life, you took a piece of me with you. I turned away from you and the Pagoda, so that the mask I wore could crumble and I could allow my tears to fall freely.

Sayonara, Mr. C

         Just when I thought love was a lie, you have come to show me how splendid love can be. Just when I thought life was a world of gloom, you have brought light, sparkles and glitters to my world. Just when I was giving up, you have taught me to soar. You are indeed my Mr. Right, a precious gift from God. I bid sayonara to the Pagoda, which has been my pillar of strength through all these dark times. I will now be safe in the tender and loving embrace of my Mr. Right as we take on the world together.

Mr. Right has made me believe in love again

Being Allured By Honshu - Day 4

        This morning's sunrise photography outing was definitely one of the best in this trip. I'm glad I tore myself away from the comfortable hotel bed and joined Derrick on this outing at Gion's Yasaka Pagoda. When we reached the spot along Higashiyama-ku Kiyomizu Sanchome (that's the name of the street), there were two other photographers who had set up their tripods there. Gradually, more shutterbugs joined us. Everyone was rather peeved when a taxi pulled up further down the slope and the passengers took ages to get off. However, it all turned out to be a bonus.

All in line for good shots of Yasaka Pagoda

        It was an ang moh photographer who had brought a kimono-clad model. Like most Westerners, he politely enquired if he could get his model to pose in the middle of the slope. Everyone assented. The presence of a Japanese girl in kimono at the dark, lonely Gion street with the imposing Yasaka Pagoda in the background...it all added to the allure of the scene. As I watched the photographers happily clicking away, a story weaved in my mind. I shall dedicate an entire blog post to that.

Memoirs of a Geisha

        By the time the sun came up, everyone had clinched some good shots. Slowly, the group dispersed. Derrick and I decided to stroll around for a while before we made our way back to the hotel. And that was how we ended up at Maruyama Park, right next to the Yasaka Shrine (not to be confused with Yasaka Pagoda). This park is especially popular for cherry blossoms, but the autumn scene was  quite a sight to behold too. As we were here so early (around half past seven), there were no tourists to jostle with. Whilst Derrick was happily taking pictures here and there, I decided to have something warm in the crisp autumn morning --- a tin of corn soup from the vending machine. Yum!

My 500 yen comfort food on a cold autumn morning

Big Bird spotted enjoying an autumn morning at Maruyama Park

Lovely autumn colours at Maruyama Park

       

On the bus 

        We later returned to Kyoto Station via bus no. 207. At our hotel, we rested for a while with our coffee (love my Chek Hup 2-in-1!). Then we proceeded to our next Kyoto destination via bus. no. 5 --- the Nishiki Market, also known as Kyoto's pantry. With more than 100 shops and restaurants along this five-block long shopping street, Nishiki Market is a must-visit in Kyoto. The snag is : your Yen will slip away easily if you stop at every shop. We were cautious about that and did not succumb to the temptation of every shop.

Nishiki Market, here I come!

Yummy soy milk doughnuts (300 yen for 10 pieces)

Happy with my soybean milk cream croquette (300 yen)

Vinegared fresh oysters

Nishiki Market's famous Octopus and Quail's Egg on a Stick

Sea urchins, anyone?

Custard cream porcupines

Snoopy marshmallows to tempt a die-hard Snoopy fan

Saying Konnichiwa to Snoopy

The grilled hotate (scallops) were so juicy and sweet

No way am I eating these!

Nishiki Market stretches on

       

           Again, we just strolled around and in one of the narrow alleys, we stumbled upon a jewel. It was a hole-in-the-wall tsukemen eatery with only 8 seats! Tsukemen is ramen that is served dry, to be dipped into a separate bowl of broth. Our lunch came up to 2070 yen. We had never tried this type of ramen, did not even know the popularity of this place, but our instincts told us that it was not to be missed. Only as we were leaving did we take note of the name of the eatery as I was again keen to rave about it on TripAdvisor. Kyo Tsukemen Tsurukame gets my thumbs up!

Just looking at this picture of my tsukemen is making me drool!

Perfect ajitsuke tamago

Kyo Tsukemen Tsurukame, tucked away in one of the many alleys, serves the most delicious noodles

        As the day was still early and we had unlimited rides on the bus, we decided to make our way to Tofukugi Temple, especially popular for the fall foliage. That must be an understatement, for it seemed that the entire Kyoto was there! We were literally elbowing our way through. Deterred by the crowd, we decided not to fork out more Yen to view the autumn colours from the famous Tsutenkyo Bridge. 

At the entrance to Tofukugi Temple

Finding a quiet spot away from the throngs of tourists

Tsutenkyo Bridge with its vivid autumn leaves and the "ants" on it

Adorable stone statues

        After having our fill of the free areas of the temple, we left and made our way back to Kyoto Station. Before going up to our room to rest, we took full advantage of the free drinks at the hotel lobby. Ms Kiasu had a cup of cold houjicha, followed by cold Premium green tea, and then took a cup of cold jasmine tea, and finally ended it with a cup of hot houjicha.  Love this hotel!

        We had a fairly early dinner at Ajisaiya, one of the many eateries at Porta Dining (located below Kyoto Station). I chose a rice set with unagi (eel) while Derrick went for beef slices with rice. My unagi don was tasty and so was Derrick's meal, but it wasn't an unforgettable meal, unlike today's lunch.

My grilled eel with rice costs 1700 yen

Derrick's 1700 yen dinner

        As we would be leaving Kyoto the next day, it meant that there would be no more 551 Horai fixes.  551 Horai is only found in Osaka and Kyoto. So we decided to etch the exquisite taste of their steamed pork buns and pork dumplings in our minds by having them for supper in our hotel room. Simply superb!!!

Patiently queueing up for butaman and shumai at the 551 Horai stall near the Hachijo exit

Face of sheer glee to have secured my supper

Illuminated Kyoto Tower as we make our way back to our hotel from Kyoto Station